Mount Olympus - blue glacier

Trip: Mt Olympus - Blue Glacier Date: 7/27/2007Trip Report:After driving from Portland (man did that seem to take forever). Thought I was going to sleep in my car for a couple of hours. But as I was getting my permit I was not tired at all.

So at 7:15 pm I left the TH for Mt Olympus. The plan: Do it in 24 hrs and then head over to Tatoosh to meet g-friend who I have not seen for over a week. She was planning on climbing some of the tatoosh with a friend of hers. Oh did I mention I have not seen her for over a week, I REALLY wanted to see meet up with her!!!! OK back to the story. Left the TH at 7:15 and feeling good. Started slow but soon I was cruising, enjoying hiking in the daylight for a change. Taking in the sights. Starting thinking if I wanted to cross the glacier in the dark. Decided I did not want to so I had to find a place to hang out and catch some ZZZZ’s till sunrise. Glacier Meadows was the last camp I knew of. After most of the flat of the trail on the river it started to go up hill. Well to moving things along I hit Glacier Meadows at 1:15 am.

Was pleasantly surprised to find “emergency” shelters. Well I did not have a tent or sleeping bag and I was only going to us it for 3 hrs so yes this would qualify me J. Just in case you did not know sleeping in your rain shells (pants and jacket) really sucks. Amazingly I did get some sleep. Awoke and hit the trail around 5:45 am. Eating breakfast (4 tortia's and salmon) on the go. Took it easy and hiked behind a group of 4 till the glacier. It was filled in and looked to be easy to get across. Strapped up and started trucking across the glacier. What a great Mtn. I was thinking how hard it was to get in there in the winter cause that place would be great to ski. It is a giant ski bowl with great lines everywhere. Basically followed the boot track to the top of Snow Dome, over the shrund around to the false summit and over to the summit scramble. (survey marker on summit) The scramble to the summit was a fun and added to the experience, then the down climbing. As I was sitting on the summit thoughts of doing the trip in 24 hrs and heading over to tatoosh were going through my mind. Made good time down the glacier and back to the trail. I was sure I could do it. But now the pain was going to set in. I needed to run as much as I can to ensure I made my goal time. At some time I am going to hit wall. At first running down hill was going good, then my knees were getting tired, then they started to hurt. Next the feet started hurting, but I was still making good time. The first 8 or so miles down from Glacier Meadows went quickly, and then it happened I hit the wall. Had to stop running and started hiking very slow, but soon I was able to pick up the hiking pace and eventually slow jog. At this point my knees were rocked, feet HURT, and the back of my left knee was growing a knot. But I only had 10 miles to go. I could still make it in 24 (maybe) so I kept on truck as best as I could. Then it happened again this time for real. THE WALL. At about 6 miles left I basically shut down. Now thoughts of making it back before dark were crossing my head. Time to take out the hiking poles, anything I could think of to keep me moving I did. Talking to myself, not taking breaks, anything. I was still making decent time, about 2 miles/hr, but did it hurt. With about 3 miles left I just wanted to be done, I had no sleeping gear, almost out of food and now I could barely walk. The Death March was officially in full effect. Now my right calf joined in the choirs of body parts revolting against me and soon my back would finish things out. It was all I could do to keep moving. Just wanted to finish before dark. Soon it was 1 mile left then, half mile left and soon the sweet, oh so sweet sight of my car. At 8:10 pm Friday night I finished. All thoughts of heading to tatoosh were gone. Hell I could barely bend over to take off my shoes and shocks. Jumped in the car and drove a ways before I pulled over to catch much need sleep. My trip was over and what a wonderfully painful enjoyable time it was. I had a blast, and what a fun mountain and enjoyable route. Next time I think I will do it in 2 days to make it easy. Also I am wondering what it would be like to head in there in the winter for some turns. Pics will come later. Camera left at home this AM. I was amazed to see how many people travel that trail and how many people were heading up to climb the route. Guess maybe a long approach but a long maintained trail will attract more people than a moderate unmaintained trail.

Sorry about the bad presentation. Added pics after and that was a mistake. Next time add as I do.

Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack 9/8/2007

Not sure who came up with the bright idea of doing Liberty Bell, liberty crack route but my buddy “P” and I were packed up with borrowed gear to supplement our own and on our way Friday afternoon. Long 7 hrs later we arrived at the parking lot for lib bell to catch some zzz’s. After some discussion on the drive up the plan was to get an early start fire off the first three aid pitches and if we were done with the aid by 11 am then we would go for the entire route that day. We slept in a bit but were still started the route early enough. I was up for the first aid pitch. After looking at the “4th class scramble” to the start of the aid I put on my rock shoes and thus started aiding in my rock shoes. The first pitch was very slow to start, some tricky placements and couple of areas that required me to get out of the aiders. Couple of placements I thanked my parents for the genes that made me tall. Not sure how long it took me but it was FOREEEEVER. Damn I suck at aiding!!!! P cleaned the pitch, and racked up for what I thought was the money aid pitch, the Lithuanian Lip. It took a bit for him to figure out how to pull the roof but he did it in fine style. Now I got to clean it. Damn that sucked. I was slow. Cleaning roofs is hard! Place jumar above piece, take bight pull in to clean gear lower back jug up to next piece. Then to pull the lip, my abs got tired on that one. When I got up to the belay he was very cold so I let him fire off the final pitch so he would warm up. By the time he finished that one I was freezing so I told him to clean the route on rap so we could get the heck out of there. I wanted my pant legs and a warm jacket that was left at the bottom since we started out in sunshine and thought those would be unnecessary extra weight. Big mistake. Day 2., early start. We jugged the lines and the roof was no problem for me, second time around. Oh I jugged in my hiking shoes and what a difference, so comfortable. As I was starting the first fixed line a couple from Seattle started and were French freeing the aid pitches…WOW. They were making great time. P racked up for the 5.10 pitch and went for it. That was a tricky pitch and we were moving slower than thought. I seconded it with the extra gear, shoes, water, clothes and rope coiled and packed away. Climbing 5.10 with an extra 20-30 lbs SUCKS donkey d$%k. I was so tired after that pitch I really started to wonder if we were going to be able to finish in a day. The couple was a pitch below and was clearly moving faster than we were so we decided to wait for them and let them pass. When they finish the wide 5.8 I started up and had a hell of a time getting into free climbing after all the aid. My head from the get go was saying get the heck off the hill. I started up and about half way up I succumbed to my brain and had to be lowered off. DAMN. After having a good head for North ridge of Stuart this was a step back. After looking at the time, all the weight for the second and my head we called it. P fired off the 5.8 pitch in fine style. We left all the hear and I packed the rope up. I was still having some head problems but got up the sucker and we did a two rope rape back to the last belay station to collect gear and get the heck out of there. I rapped down to the station and forgot to clip in, nice comfy ledge. P caught my error and basically saved my life. After getting to ropes unstuck from the first rap we were back at the bottom. The last rap we rapped over a guy aiding the first pitch, man he was aiding in fine style, basically showing us how it is done. WOW is all I can say. On the entire trip we were keeping a mental note of lessons learned on the trip. 1) Extensive aiding in rock shoes sucks.2) Aiding in rock shoes with Velcro is not good. Velcro catches on everything making a cluster.3) We both needed to eat a lot more and drink water. First day we drank one liter for the both of us and I only ate 2 bagels besides breakfast (most likely major contributor to my head f$%k). Second time this lesson was learned for me, North Ridge of Stuart I did not eat or drink enough. 4) Bring warm clothes with you up on the rock, blue toes, hands, and the shivers at belay is not fun5) We need a way to figure how to shave off lbs for the free climbing. 6) From Portland it is quicker to drive I-5 to Liberty Bell rather than taking the east side.7) Bring extra batteries even if you thing the ones you have are good. Damn camera was out for the first day. The best day for pics too.I like to thank Dan and Justin for loaning me the extra gear. Dan thank for taking me aiding the two times prior at Broughtons. I need a LOT more practice. Beacon??? It was an exciting 3rd time aiding A2 can be a bit freaky when you are new to it. Two lobes on a micro cam will hold body weight but does not like to be moved around a lot. P thanks for the good time, we both learned a lot and next year with some refinement and aid practice we will fire that thing off. We did a lot right; we just need to do more. It was a huge step up for both of us and we both has a great time. P lets fire some more sh$t off. I am game

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/722317/page/1/fpart/1

Da Tooth Sept 22-23

I have wanted to do The Tooth and Ingalls Peak for quite some time. Talked to Cort about it and decided to invite Jon and Jessica as well as my main climbing partner Josh who was in dire need of getting some alpine. Friday afternoon Josh drove up from Bend, we loaded Corts rig and started the drive north. Jon and Jessica drove thier own rig and were going to meet us in the parking lot. After figuring out that the summer TH and the winter TH are in different parking lots the former being in the main lot for Alpintal camp was set just as the rain started falling. Guess we were going to get the 20% chance of rain. After getting lost Jon and Jessica finally showed up and set thier camp between showers. In bed by 1:30 am. It rained through out the night, great the rock will be wet oh well we can at least get to the base of the climb to check it out. Conditioning hike right? Got up late to let the rain stop we were hoping, left the parking lot at a reasonble 8 am. The hike in started nice, that trail was a wilderness highway. Made great time to the talus fields then things slowed down. The climb up to the base looks a lot shorter from the trail, what you don't see is a second talus field/bowl. It started to mist/rain halfway through the first talus field and at round the 5,500 ft level it was snowing. Things were not looking good. But we trudged on anyway. The scrambling on the back side of pineapple pass we very sketchy. Steep mud/rock. In dry conditons would be a non-story but wet it made for interesting footing. Falling was not an option. We wrapped around the gendarm to the base of the climb and things were wet. To top things off the sun was teasing us with sucker holes every now and again. Jessica (on her first alpine experience) was not ready to head up. Josh and I were ready to fire the thing off, Jon I thing was ready after he figured out that Josh and I did not care about the wet rock. Cort was being supportive of Jessica and was willing to go with her to let the "boys" climb. We set up the rap for the ladies, I talked to Josh after Cort was down and the decision was made to bail. Keep a positive experience for all was more important than bagging a easy climb. Needless to say I am looking for the next weather window to fire that bad boy off. Everybody had a good time. Sunday Cort, Josh and I headed to Bulo point for some alpine cragging in the dry. What a good time. It was good to see and climb with Josh, we have to get out more often!!

North Ridge of Stuart aug 25-26

I talked Joel into doing the NR of Stuart. This route goes 30 pitches at a grate of 5.9. A huge step up for both of us. Go big or go home right? The weather was looking iffiy before we even started. Gathered up as much info as we could and decided on what sized rack to take. So the plan was to drive up to Stuart/Ingalls Lake TH start hiking around 2 am get to the base of the route by daybrake. Climb to the bivi sight on route. Finish the route the next day and get home. Well that was the plan. The drive took much longer (we went via I-5), and we started hiking around 4 am. The hike in took a lot longer as well. So we were at the base of the route around 9 am. Joel elected to take the first pitch. He fired off the bottom just fine till he got to the 5.8 offwidth. He was having a hell of a time because his backpack was hitting the roof of the offwidth. After many tries we finally decided that he would leave hit backpack clipped to a piece and finish out. After ditching the pack the rest of the pitch went like clockwork. I climbed up to his pack and promptly left mine there as well, but took the extra rope. I got up to the belay set the line for a rap for Joel who volunteered to rap down and prussic up so we could retrieve the packs. He did a great job and soon I was off on the 5.9 layback finger crack. I started with my pack and quickly ditched it. The extra weight was making my feet slip and pulling the tenuas layback difficult. After loosing a few pounds things went "easier." Placing pro was hard. I climbed up to a small roof with a good stance and did not like many of the pieces I placed, so I took some time to place the next one. After about 5 minutes I had a piece in that I was REALLY happy with finally. I started up again and the climbing was more of the same, hard. I could take the time to place a piece and get real tired or I could just finish this thing off. Well I opted to finish it off. The exit to the belay was not an easy move and sure enough I peeled off. A good 30 ft later I came to a nice stop caught by my belayer. Nice work Joel :) I was shaken a bit, my right thumb had a good gash in it and my right ankle was a bit tweeked, so I was just fine. Not too bad for my first real trad fall. After a minute or two I got back to climbing and finished the pitch with a few more pieces this time. Joel got to the belay and we talked about our options. Personally I was done after the fall. But the weather and the time were our main concerns. We bailed. My ankle was getting worse as we hiked out but it leveled out after a point. We made it all the way to just below Ingalls pass before we decided we were too tired to go any further. Found a bivi spot and slept. Around 5 am (4 hrs sleep) it started to rain, and we packed up and booked it out to the car. Stuart was fully in the clowds and rain. Thank god we were not up there in that, talk about an epic!!