Great Quotes

"Frostbite ? I consider that a failure." — Marc Twight. "We'll climb with you and steal your women." — Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. "He who remains calm while those around him panics probably doesn't know what is going on." "Don't fall now or we'll both go." — Layton Kor on numerous occasions. "I don't have any friends, and my nuts are too small." — Climber on a bad day. "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." — Evan Hardin.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Snow

When will it snow. Ok it has but not enough for me to get my skis out on the Mnt. It is cold now but we have no precip. This is sucking. To top it all off I threw out my back last weekend. Some much for some holiday fun. Oh well next weekend I will be back and ready to get the lungs hurting.

Thursday, November 08, 2007

Smith Rocks 11-4-2007

After heading to XC championships at Lane Community College on sat I drove over the crest to Bend for a day of climbing with Josh and Chris. Little worried about keeping up with those two. They sound like they are climbing strong. Weather was great. Felt like 70 deg, and it was sunny. Headed to testament slab, we started on revelations 5.9 for a warm up. Then irreverance 5.10 a. My turn to lead I headed up a 5.10b route (don't know the name). I am suprised to see that it is rated 5.10b thought it was a 5.9. Things were getting crowded so we headed over the pass to the back side and the Mesa Verde wall. Chris fired off Reason To Be and old school 5.10d. Man on top rope that route is HARD. Leading it is crazy! Realy fun route, pumpy and teckie footing. I was "told" I had to lead Sundown a 5.9 four star gear lead. This route is a bit intimidating. The first piece is about 15 ft off the deck. Easy climbing but if you fell..... Got my first two pieces in and felt much better. At this point you climb inside the detached dihedral with a great crack for hands. I was about half way up and my head started to go bad. I asked for a take and both Chris and Josh said NO. After hearing this I bucked up and finished the route. I cheated a bit and used the face to the left. Thank god for good friends and the no take. To finish things off for the day Chris lead Bad Moon Rising 5.11a. This route is fun but getting to the point of crazy hard for me. He took twice and fell once pulling the roof. It looked like a giant was above the ledge and blew him off the rock, he just flew off. It was rather entertaining. The start is so thin and powerfull. It was a great day, good weather and good friends to share the day. Can't wait till the next free weekend to head back down for a throw down :)