Wonderland Trip

Cort gave me what she wrote up. This is her account of our trip on the Wonderland Trail around Mt Rainier.

Wanted to give you all an update on my Wonderland vacation.

I started the trip on Friday, September 8th with my friend Tania. We had great weather and hiked 10 miles to our first camp ground. On the way, Tania got a nasty blister on her heel, though neither of us thought much about it. We camped without incident and started day two with our heavy packs (mine weighed almost 50 lbs and hers 40lbs). By mid-day Tania's blister became two much to bear and she could no longer really walk at all. We decided to bail on our trip. We were both disappointed but for having to bail things really worked out well. We were hiking into a camp ground with road access and it was a Saturday so there we lots of weekend campers. We hitched a ride down to the ranger station (about 6 miles down the road) and called Tania's mom who lived about an hour away. Tania's mom picked us up and drove us over to our car. Tania and I drove back to Portland Saturday night. I figured my vacation was over. However, Will was able to take the week off and do the Wonderland with me. Sunday we went shopping for some more lightweight gear and re-organized and re-loaded our packs. When all was said and done my pack weighed in at 28 lbs and Will's at around 35 lbs. It should be perfectly clear that Will carried every piece of "group gear" (i.e. tent, water filter, stove - I helped out by carrying our group toothbrush and toothpaste and spoon!) Will and I drove up to Seattle on Sunday evening and drove to Sunrise (at Rainer) to get a permit to camp on Monday. We planned a 6 day/5 night trek. We started hiking around 10:30 Monday morning. Our first day was beautiful!! Sunny but not too warm. We hiked about 14.5 miles from Sunrise to Nickle Creek. On trail everyone we saw thought we were sort of crazy for planning it in 6 days (it is recommended to complete it in 10 -14 days). We did meet a couple however who was also doing it in 6 days. They were on day 2. We got to camp around 5:00 - 5:30 and right away met some interesting people. There was a man and his younger wife there who just kept talking and talking to us. He was a tad on the weird side but did give Will some good beta on the trail. We set up our tent, ate dinner and passed out. Day two was also perfect weather. We hiked 18 miles from Nickle Creek to Pyramid Creek. We were sort of in a race against time on day two b/c we had a food cache delivered to Longmire Ranger Station. When we checked in the ranger who gave us our permit was not able to get ahold of anyone at Longmire to confirm we would be picking up the cache a day earlier then planned. The ranger said as long as we were there before 4:30 it should be no problem. We hustled and got there around 1:30. The ranger was a lunch so Will bought me lunch at the restaurant there. We pigged out - onion rings, fries, burger, lemonade! It was delicious! After lunch we loaded up our cache and continued about 3.5 miles into camp. Another nice camp ground and we found ourselves there with some sunlight to enjoy. We sat by the River for some time and tried to dry out our clothes. Back at camp while we cooked our dinner we checked the map and saw that each of our remaining 4 days was around 15 miles, with the exception that day 6 would be 12 miles - our "easy day". We met a very nice couple from Minnesota (I told them about you Grant!!). They we attempting a summit bid on Friday/Saturday. The woman's mother had bought the guided summit trip for the woman for her birthday. We had so much time to relax at camp that Will put up his hammock!! We both rested in it and read. Day three was overcast but still a very comfortable day. We hiked 15 miles at what was for us a very slow pace but we really enjoyed the day. We hiked up on Emerald Ridge and had fabulous views of the Tahoma glacier. (Actually this day we climb up and along two ridge lines - and down again!!!) I think this might have been Will's favorite day b/c we were in an alpine like setting - high and rugged. We hiked from Pyramid Creek to North Pullayup. North Pullayup had very few campers. Just one other couple and a group of three. As Will and I headed over to the toilet to dump our uncooked rice (oops - I packed non-instant rice - oops!) one of the men in the group of three let us use his binoculars to look at mountain goats high on the mountain. As we went to bed that night we could tell a storm was moving in. Day four we woke up to a light rain. Undiscouraged we put on our new nifty light weight, multi-purpose ponchos and set off. After a short distance and a few hours we were soaked! Just soaked. Both my feet were sopping wet - to the point I could wring out my soaks. Will's feet were also wet, although he did not mention (i.e complain) about it like I did. We hiked up yet another ridge into what we were told is a beautiful area called Golden Lakes. We of course could not see a thing b/c of the weather. While at Golden Lakes we met yet another nice couple from Texas who had been in the back country for 10 days. The man was doing research for his doctorate work in some sort of biology field. While we chatted it began to snow. Not long after I started to cry b/c I was so uncomfortable, wet, cold and nervous about camping with a floorless tent in the rain. Will was calm and collected, hugged me and said everything would be fine. (He ended up being right). So we started to move again to stay warm. We really hustled and hiked 11 miles in 4.5 hours. We ate lunch in a shelter at a camp ground and still had 4 miles to go to our campground and our second food cache. Because moving = warmth we did not stop for long and were on our way again. On our way uphill to our cache we met the couple we had seen on our first day. They told us to expect more snow up above. Our designated camp ground for the evening was Mowich Lake. Here we picked up our second food cache. Will made some warm water and we ate some top romain to warm up. We decided to hike another 5 miles to a lower camp to get out of the snow and b/c we had covered the 15 miles for the day so quickly. As we started down to Ipsut Creek the weather cleared and we took off the ponchos for the first time that day. It was nice. At Ipsut it started to rain again. After chatting with some other hikers for a minute we hustled to put up our tent b/c it was getting dark. We cooked dinner in the tent and looked at the map again. We had gone 20 miles that day and had about 23 to the car. B/c the weather was not looking up and our stuff was getting wet, we decided to get up early and head for the car the next day, cutting our trip one day short. We ate two nights worth of dinners to get fueled and went to sleep. Day five we got up early and headed up hill. This day the weather kept changing - from light rain, to sun, to just overcast, to snow! It snowed more then anything else which actually was welcome and so much better then the rain b/c it wasn't as wet. At least my feet were dry and we didn't have to wear the ponchos. We tried to eat often and drink lots so we could keep up a good pace. We did well until around mile 16 when my knees just started to hurt so bad (from all the downhill) that I really slowed down. We found ourselves up at a high elevation in an open meadow type area and it was really starting to snow and blow. B/c I was moving so much slower, Will geared me up in warm clothes and took off running for the car. The plan was for him to run to the car and meet me at a campground/trailhead about 2.5 miles west of where our car was parked. He had wanted me to get in my sleeping bag and wait at Sunrise (about 6 miles from the car) but I couldn't image waiting around and the moving really did keep me warm. So off ran Will and I hobbled along. I got to White River camp ground around 3:15 and started walking to the main road where Will and I agreed to meet. Just as I got to the Ranger station Will pulled up. Our timing was perfect. We were drenched, exhausted and so happy. We took a few last photos, changed clothes and hopped in the car for home! All in all it was a great trip. The trial is fantastic and grueling. The downhills are killer, as both of our knees will confess. Will and I actually moved faster uphill then downhill. Mt. Rainer is beyond beautiful and everything is grand and gorgeous. We both would like to do this trip again - although maybe tack on about 4 more days and do it about 4 weeks earlier!! Cortney

Laps March 11-12

Headed up to Newton Creek. My camera crapped out on me so I borrowed some.
This what it was like on saturday. Sunday it was deeper still!!!! It was a great work out and I think I will be doing a lot more of this when I can't get up high for the summits. My trip report,

http://www.turns-all-year.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=tr0603;action=display;num=1142306605;start=0

Broken Top, 11 O' clock couloir

It was a good time. I really want to go back and do the noon direct finish. That line looks sweet. I understand that pro is hard to find. Also there are a couple of other routes I have not heard of being climbed that look great. I was going to ski the route but conditions were a bit sketchy for me. Another time forsure.

Jlag beet me to posting the route so the link is
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/550234/an/0/page/0#550234

Redemption Pictures

Redemption 3-19-06

For the three day Presidents Day weekend plans changed quite a bit. The initial plan was to head to Shasta but a front was moving through the area. Next was to climb Rainier. The weather was perfectly clear for our climbing period but an arctic front came down from the north and temperatures including windchill would have be around -30 degrees. Needless to say was not happy about the cold but crystal clear conditions since I did not have the gear for anything remotely that cold. The plan changed to climbing Middle Sister, and Thayer Headwall on North. At this point really did not want to carry all the heavy cold weather gear for an over nighter, ok I was getting lazy. Fortunately my climbing partner Josh was on the same page, thank god. I found out two days before the weekend that my buddy Chuck was going to go back and climb Leuthold after we had figured out what gully not go up in our previous attempt. Since the artic front was in full effect bringing high winds on Friday night/Saturday the climb was set for Sunday. The team of 6 (3 skiers, and 3 booters) left Timberline at the late hour of 7 am (cold temps + no wind = no ice fall). I decided to boot up since the slops had received no new snow for many days and the slopes were very icy. We made great time to illumination Saddle, 2.5 hours. Conditions were perfect for cramponing. Rested and geared up Josh and I left the saddle first followed shortly by the rest of the climbers. Heading up the slope to the Hour Glass the snow was perfect Styrofoam. These were dream climbing conditions. The Hour Glass was about two pitches of about 40 degree snow that went fast. Now we were on route for sure. Josh and I headed up to Queens Chair for a break to let the rest of the climbing party catch up. Josh and I reached the Chair and were greeted with a spectacular view of St. Hellens, Mt Adams, and Rainier. From here you can look over the upper portion of Sandy Headwall and that looks like a lot of fun. That climb would be a very long day but a lot of fun. After Chuck and Larry joined us at the Chair the four of us left for the summit. The last two in the party were roped up and placing pro most of the way for practice on steeper climbs, so they were taking a lot longer to climb the route. The rest of the climb went fairly quickly as we trudged up. At this point I was getting a headache from the altitude. The traverse of the North Ridge was easy and safe. We made the summit in about 3 hours from illumination saddle. A good time considering the long brakes we took. Booting down to the car was torture to say the least, a good reminder of why I like to skin up and ski down. My knees and ankles were killing me by the time I made it to the car. What a great trip!!! It was cold all day very little wind and perfect snow. I was happy to do the full route and will be happy to never do it again if I can avoid it. Great route with some steepness, but nothing that interesting. However I would love to do this route again if I can get some good ski conditions for a ski decent!!!!! The next climb on hood will be steel cliffs to help prepare for an attempt on the North Face. Will hope to post some pics as soon as chuck gets them on the web. What a great day!!! Hope to have more of these soon.

2006-02-12

Cort and I headed up to climb Leuthold. Yes the day after the "epic route finding problems." Thought I could redeam myself now that I knew the way, or at least the way not to go..lol. I was so slow and tired. What did I expect. Cort was kicking my ass all the way to illumination. When we got there the sun was out, slight breaze and we had a great spot for lunch. Other than me being really tired (was prepaired to suffer through that) my right foot was starting to hurt. After a little pow-wow, Cort and I deciede we had went far enough. Cort headed out since she was on foot and I was on skis. Headed to the highest part of the saddle against Illumination Rock geared up and skied off on to hard snow/ice. I discovered how steep I was willing to go on that suface and I was on that slope angle. Very pleasent ski back to the car even if I had to stop several times to give my screaming legs a rest. Lower down the snow was just starting to get soft and made for nice turns. Was very exhausted and glad to be back at the car. Time for a nap.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/48176128@N00/sets/72057594064909281/

Leuthold attempt 2006-11-02

The plan was to head up Leuthold coulior. Josh, Chuck and I made good time to Illumination saddle. Josh and Chuck decided to stash their snowboard and skis while I decided I wanted to ski down leuthold. The first opportunity was to ski off leuthold onto the Reid Glacier to the base of what we thought was the route. Had about 4 good fun turns before had to traverse. Packed up the skis and got out the axe for the start. It was a bit steeper than I had anticipated then it go steeper and transitioned from hard snow to water ice. After getting out the rope, tools, and pickets Josh headed up for a pich of skechyness heading up what I think was WI3-4. Was not too happy that I decided we did not need ice screws. Chuck was the man, I forgot to bring the second ice axe for him so he did the pich with one light weight axe. We went up another pitch still thinking we were on route (some people were starting to question our route choice, Chuck). After Josh headed up a little further unroped we decided we were on Yocum ridge, DAMN!!! And HOLLY SH&T!!!!! Now we have to get down. After some talking to make sure we had enough gear to get down we rapped off two pickets than one to get to the start of the ice pitch which thank god had a nice anchor already set up. Rapping off the pickets was the hardest part for me. I had never rapped off the pickets and was not sure they would hold. But there was only one way out of there. Needless to say we left 4 pickets on that route, bootie for anybody dumb enough to go up that gully. The last rap consisted of one nut and two old slings that we hoped were around solid rock. After sending Josh down first we deemed the anchor solid. The rest of the trip was rather mundane after that. Was glad to get back to the car safe!!! and in one piece. All in all it was a really good trip, learned a ton. I almost don't regret going up Leutholds :)

Here are the photos, http://www.flickr.com/photos/48176128@N00/sets/72057594064877211/

Crater Rock Skin

The weather was too tempting to pass up. Got off work early and headed to the mountain for a quick trip to Crater Rock and a nice long ski down. The surface was a bit on the icy side but was still able to make it most of the way up. Packed the skis the rest of the way and started my way down just as the sun was setting. Man what a great trip.
Check out the pics, http://www.flickr.com/photos/48176128@N00/sets/72057594064869787/

Crystal Mt.

Went to crystal a couple of weekends ago and it is a great place to ski. The snow was better higher up the on the mountain. Unfortunetly the backcountry was closed all day due to high winds and poor visiblity. The place was a bit busy even in the poor weather, that place must get crazy on good weather days. Can't wait to go back and get into the back country.

Well I have started a blog. Some pics from the first trip outdoors this season. Some time in December. There was a ton of snow. A great start to what could be a great mountaineering season.