Leuthold attempt 2006-11-02

The plan was to head up Leuthold coulior. Josh, Chuck and I made good time to Illumination saddle. Josh and Chuck decided to stash their snowboard and skis while I decided I wanted to ski down leuthold. The first opportunity was to ski off leuthold onto the Reid Glacier to the base of what we thought was the route. Had about 4 good fun turns before had to traverse. Packed up the skis and got out the axe for the start. It was a bit steeper than I had anticipated then it go steeper and transitioned from hard snow to water ice. After getting out the rope, tools, and pickets Josh headed up for a pich of skechyness heading up what I think was WI3-4. Was not too happy that I decided we did not need ice screws. Chuck was the man, I forgot to bring the second ice axe for him so he did the pich with one light weight axe. We went up another pitch still thinking we were on route (some people were starting to question our route choice, Chuck). After Josh headed up a little further unroped we decided we were on Yocum ridge, DAMN!!! And HOLLY SH&T!!!!! Now we have to get down. After some talking to make sure we had enough gear to get down we rapped off two pickets than one to get to the start of the ice pitch which thank god had a nice anchor already set up. Rapping off the pickets was the hardest part for me. I had never rapped off the pickets and was not sure they would hold. But there was only one way out of there. Needless to say we left 4 pickets on that route, bootie for anybody dumb enough to go up that gully. The last rap consisted of one nut and two old slings that we hoped were around solid rock. After sending Josh down first we deemed the anchor solid. The rest of the trip was rather mundane after that. Was glad to get back to the car safe!!! and in one piece. All in all it was a really good trip, learned a ton. I almost don't regret going up Leutholds :)

Here are the photos, http://www.flickr.com/photos/48176128@N00/sets/72057594064877211/